Showing posts with label Iceland. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Iceland. Show all posts

Monday, 4 December 2023

Christmas in Iceland

Hello Friends!

I thought today I'd share a little bit about Christmas in Iceland. In some ways, it is similar to Christmas in Wales but in other ways, it is very different indeed. First, we'll take a brief look at the National Folk Museum of Iceland in Reykjavik. It's a small collection of traditional Icelandic buildings constructed from wood and turf.

Please note: the majority of these photographs are photographs of the original 35mm film images.

National Museum of Iceland 




A small brass band entertains, while the guide in the foreground is wearing a traditional cloak woven from Icelandic sheep fleece.  She will be warm and cosy in her cloak, whatever the weather.  It was a very beautiful garment, of which I was quite envious!

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A few various photographs of interiors. There is a traditional fir tree as we would know it, however, the majority of the decorations will be handcrafted. Very often they are made out of recycled materials.  Until fairly recently, post WWII, importing of manufactured goods to Iceland was often intermittent, unreliable and expensive, so there is a strong history of make do and mend, recycling and upcycling.  Improvements to transport may have changed all that now, but the museum continues to preserve the ethos of bygone days.



Trees were hung with paper cones of sweets, and small baskets made out of hexagonal shapes cut out of last year's Christmas cards and stitched together with yarn would be filled with cookies and other sweet treats.  These ladies are making cones and baskets to sell.  The homemade tree was commonplace, instead of a real fir tree.
The emphasis is very much on home made, recycling, good food, and above all, family time.



Knitted ornaments, shapes woven from straw, woven paper hearts, and candles are also traditional Christmas decorations.


A traditional food served at Christmas is Laufabrauð, an unleavened flatbread {you can read more here} made using a special type of cutter.  The cuts are then folded into intricate patterns before the dough is cooked.



I purchased this paper cut replica at the museum, as made by the ladies, above.



This is a traditional cutting iron for sale in the museum shop {photo from site}




Another tradition in Iceland are the Yuletide Lads. These are the thirteen sons of the ogress Grýla and they come down from the mountains, one a day until on the 25th of December, all the boys are here. and then one by one they return to the mountains.  Each of them has an attribute for creating havoc, with Anglicised names such as Pot  Licker, Skyr Gobbler, Door Slammer, Sausage Stealer, and Window Peeper.   

You can read more about Grýla and her infamous Black Cat, and there's a full list of the Lad's names here.

Icelandic children do not put out Christmas stockings on Christmas Eve. But for the 13 days before Christmas, when the Icelandic lads are coming down out of the mountains, they put a shoe by the door or the window sill and if they have been good children they get a treat in their shoe, but if they have been naughty, they receive a potato.

Over the years, the fear of Gryla and her sons has softened somewhat, but in centuries past it must have been a very frightening time for small children especially in the deep dark days of an Icelandic winter!

A wonderful Christmas tradition they have in Iceland is the Jólabókaflóðið. It literally translates to flood of books. in the weeks coming up to Christmas, all authors release their new titles. Then, on Christmas Eve, the tradition is that the family gathers in the living room by the fireside and they all read their new books while eating chocolate.  What could be better: It is a tradition that would be worth observing!

Speaking of books, I am making a donation to the Book Trust in lieu of sending Christmas cards this year. Books have always held a special part of my heart for all of my life but as a small child, Christmas wasn't Christmas unless I had at least one book And thankfully, I usually had many!  The gift of a book to a child is a very important thing, in my opinion. It encourages so many things, not only the basic skills of reading, but opens up a whole new magical world of the imagination. 

Well, I have just scratched the surface of Christmas in Iceland. I've put in a few links if you want to explore further, you can.

Gleðileg jól


Until next time.
Stay safe stay well. Stay warm!
Debbie.  xx

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Sunday, 15 October 2023

Sagas, Snorri and Tom

Hello Friends!

I'm going to be taking a completely different path today.  We're still in Iceland which, in my opinion, is the most interesting country imaginable. I was amazed to learn that most modern day Icelanders can proudly trace their ancestry right back to the Book of Settlements {Landnámabók} with over 1000 years of history since the original settlers made their home in the Land of Ice and Fire as it is fondly known. As I shared in my previous entry, here, it could just have easily been nicknamed the Land of Waterfalls.  There will be more on the ice and fire in a future entry.

While there, I availed myself of their literary traditions. They have a rich tradition of sagas, but unfortunately the majority of them are not translated into English. So my research and reading was somewhat restricted, and, I become familiar with the works of Snorri Sturluson.  I also read  the available translated sagas, most notably Njal's Saga, Egil's Saga, and Laxdæla Saga which formed part of my studies towards my degree in Humanities with the University of Maryland.

One of the most memorable things I did while living in Iceland was attend a rare reading of Icelandic poetry and literary extracts in an ancient turf roofed dwelling. A small select group of us sat in the deepening twilight. The room lit only by traditional tallow candles and oil lamps. The Icelandic host read to us in English, Icelandic and Old Norse.  I cannot begin to explain how magical , how spiritual it was to sit there as they would have 100 or more years ago, indeed for a thousand years, in a house built of turf with no mod cons. While photographs were not allowed of the event this is a fairly typical interior, and very similar to where we were sitting for the reading.



Despite many of the earliest sources of their literature being transferred from generation to generation by the oral traditions of story telling and not written down nor attributed, many of the sites mentioned in the old stories are quite visible and known today. For example, 1000 years later, we know exactly where Snorri Sturluson lived and where he was assassinated.  We know where Bergthora is buried. We know the exact spot of the Law Speakers stone at the Alþingi, the site of the Icelandic parliament in Thingvellir, the oldest parliament in the world, and so on.  This knowledge base can probably be attributed to the fact that Iceland is an island and was fairly isolated so that information remained reasonably complete without being disseminated, or contaminated and diluted by outside influences.

Thingvellir in Autumn and Winter



The chasm at Thingvellir which forms part of the divide between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates and the Öxará River Which leads to a ducking pool where many a wrongly accused woman met her fate accused of witchcraft.



I had many rare privileges while living in Iceland, and one was to stand at the Law Speakers stone one summer afternoon while part of the Laws of Iceland were recited in a modern day reenactment of an Alþingi.  One thousand years ago, it was the job of the Law Speaker to recite from memory one third per year of the Laws of Iceland at the annual gathering of the clan leaders, who came from across Iceland to Thingvellir for the annual meeting, or Alþingi, when law making happened and disputes were resolved.  One such law, for example, was the conversion to Christianity in the year 1,000.  Initially, this conversion was made purely for economic reasons, to facilitate trade with the rest of Europe, already primarily Christian and who were reluctant to trade with the pagan Icelanders.

The Law Speaker's Stone

Snorri Sturluson was a politician and historian, a writer and poet.  He was elected to the position of Law Speaker twice. He composed the Prose Edda which along with the more ancient and anonymous Poetic Edda form the basis of all Icelandic mythology and have influenced many notable modern authors, most notably JRR Tolkien and Ezra Pound.   He was assassinated at the at the age of 61 at his home in Reykholt, allegedly by men hired by the king of Norway.

Snorri Sturluson


The original bathing pool at Reykholt where Snorri was assassinated.


I'm not going to go in depth here otherwise we'd still be here when Spring melts into Summer. The sagas are hard work to read, in part due to the endless rounds of disputes! If you've ever read Tolkien, as I have done many times, I found The Hobbit very easy reading. The Lord of the Rings requires more concentration and focus. The Silmarillion requires an "ology" to read! However, I can find many fascinating connexions and similarities between the old literature of Iceland and Tolkien's writings. This is no new revelation, but it keeps drawing me back, and I have to say it was quite revealing living in Iceland, going from place to place exploring and discovering places that may well have been the source of inspiration for The Lord of the Rings especially. I truly believe that visiting Thingvellir for the first time that I was approaching Helms Deep. Mount Hekla and surrounding lava fields are widely believed to be the inspiration for Mount Doom and Mordor.  

Bubbling geothermal mud pit

Another similarity in Snorri's Edda is a list of names that we instantly recognise as the names of the dwarves in The Hobbit . They're all there: Dalin, Balin, Kili, Fili, Dori, Nori, Ori, Oin, Gloin, Bifur, Bombur and Thorin Oakenshield.  Even Ganalf's name is there!

Perhaps the one thing that I picked up on more than anything is the parallel I drew for a paper I wrote for a UMD university course on Icelandic literature about Tom Bombadil from The Lord of the Rings, and the conversion to Christianity in Nial's Saga.  Whether or not anyone has picked up on this before I do not know, but I certainly impressed my lecturer with my conclusion and received an A+ for my troubles.  

I argued in my paper that the chapters pertaining to Nial's conversion to Christianity could be removed and completely omitted from the saga without it having any overall effects. It happened and there was an end to it. Remove those chapters and it was as if the conversion had never happened. You could read straight across them without losing anything from the remaining text and I feel the same can be said of the Tom Bombadil chapters in Lord of the Rings.  Other than presenting us with a character who cannot be explained, you can remove the chapters surrounding Tom Bombadil from Lord of the Rings and the story would continue as if those chapters had never existed.  Yet Tom is a key character for many of us.

As an aside, if you are familiar with the character Tom Bombadil, you may be aware of the furore Peter Jackson caused when he directed his film trilogy interpretations of the books and he completely omitted the character and relevant chapters surrounding Tom Bombadil and Goldberry.  Despite Tom being a seemingly small and innocuous character, he was an important one, for he was the one true being impervious to the evil of Sauron.  That, my friends, is discussion for another day!

Until next time
stay safe. Stay well.
Debbie xx 


For purposes of ease I am using the anglicised versions of name places.
All photographs in this blog today are digital copies of original 35mm film.



Monday, 9 October 2023

The Land of Fire and Ice . . . and Waterfalls

Hello friends!

Thank you all for your very kind words and support after my last blog entry.  I'm sorry I made some of you cry. I was crying myself when I was writing it, and again when I was reading some of your lovely comments.  You gave some very valuable feedback, and my mind is a lot clearer now.  Sometimes we just have to put our thoughts out there to see what we're thinking, and it helps to see it through the eyes of others. 

As some of you know, and for those of you who don't, I lived in Iceland for four years in the early 1990s.  Iceland is known as the land of Ice and Fire. Not unsurprisingly, because it has a high level of volcanic activity as it straddles the tectonic plates of Eurasia and North America, but it also has several glaciers most notably Vatnajökull in south east Iceland.  However, every which way you turn there are endless waterfalls from tiny rivulets of silver strands slipping silently over high cliffs, to the great gushing giants of Gullfoss and Dettifoss.  To me, Iceland is the land of waterfalls. I loved going out at every opportunity to discover more that I hadn't seen before.

The first big falls I visited just days after I arrived in Iceland is Gullfoss {Golden Falls} on the river Hvítá {White River} in Southwest Iceland, and is part of the famous "Golden Circle" which I will talk about in the future.  Gulllfoss drops approximately 33 metres into the 20 metre wide canyon below.  The Hvítá River originates from the Hvítárvatn glacier lake on Langjökull glacier in the highlands of Iceland.



The Hvítá River canyon below the falls.


Another famous waterfall in Iceland is Dettifoss, the second most powerful falls in Europe located in Northeast Iceland and originating from the Vatnajökull glacier in Southeast Iceland.  You may recognise it from the opening sequence of the film "Prometheus" representing an alien landscape.  At 100 metres wide with a drop of 44 metres, it is located on the Diamond Circle route.  


The Jökulsárgljúfur canyon below the falls



Next is Goðafoss, waterfall of the Goði, or pagan gods.  Located on the Skjálfandafljót river near the main road in North Iceland, it has a drop of 12 meters and is 30 meters wide.  It is considered to be one of the most picturesque of the Icelandic falls.




Perhaps the falls with the saddest name and story is this one, Bjarnafoss, again on the  Hvítá river.  Local history records that two boys remained at home when their parents went to church one Sunday. but the boys grew bored and decided to follow their parents. They took a shortcut and crossed a stone bridge above the waterfall. But on their way, they  fell into the water and drowned. When their mother found out what had happened, she put a curse on the bridge saying that nobody would ever cross it without drowning. A little while later, the bridge was demolished in an earthquake.


Nearby is the Hraunfossar falls, a series of waterfalls formed by rivulets streaming over a distance of about 900 metres out of the lava field which flowed from a volcanic eruption.


In the middle of Skaftafell in Vatnajökull Glacier National Park is the most stunning waterfall of Svartifoss {Black Falls}.  The dark basalt columns provided the inspiration for Icelandic architects when building the cathedral of Hallgrimskirkja in Reykjavik. 


Seljalandsfoss is located in South Iceland with a drop of 60 meters from the Seljalands River that originates in the volcanic glacier of Eyjafjallajökull. Commonly called the E volcano It is the one that caused the disruption when it erupted in 2010.  Visitors can walk behind the falls into a small cave.



The last of the named waterfalls I'm going to show you today is called  Skógáfoss. With a drop of 60 metres and a width of 25 metres, it is located  on the Skógá River in the South of Iceland at the cliff marking the former coastline. 


Icelanders will pitch up anywhere!


As I said before, Iceland is the country of 1000 waterfalls and more. There are waterfalls at every turn and. some of them although small and without name, are quite  beautiful and unusual.  So I'm going to finish today with a few random photos from across the country.














I hope you have enjoyed this whirlwind tour of waterfalls in Iceland. I have only just begun to scratch the surface of my time spent in this magical land that was my home for four years.

until next time
Stay safe. Stay well
Debbie xx 




Monday, 1 May 2017

Merry Merry May with Cake ~~~

Hello Friends!

Happy May Day!
Tis the Merry Merry Month of May!

Oh, yes, there must always be cake ~ and the cake I will share with you later.

Everything is waking up in the garden, and getting ready for a Springtime Garden Party. As I wander through the garden I wonder and ponder at the miracle of life surviving the winter months: the evergreen trees that never give up their colour, such as the yew tree and the camellias; the bare branches of deciduous trees, dormant since their autumn glory, and now bursting open wildly into a myriad shades of green; shrubs and plants of all kinds that dropped their leaves but kept their berries and seed heads to feed and nourish the birds all winter long; plants that disappeared only to reappear with sturdy new shoots above the soil, continue the cycle of life; and tiny green seedlings sprouting everywhere, evidence of last summer's flowers renewing their vow to return ~~~ and so it goes!

Here's what's blooming in the garden this week ~~~

Aquilegia Columbine

Cowslip Primula Veris

Osteospermum Cape Daisies

Seed head of Pasque flower

Seed head of Pasque flower

A beautiful demon!

Well hidden in amongst the leaves of the Arum lily

Arum lily

Spanish bluebells

Aquilegia Columbine

Apple Blossom

Apple Blossom and plenty of it!

My 'free' mint plant going from strength to strength each day now! How quickly it grows.

The return of wintry weather has brought a halt to most gardening jobs for a few days at least, but we need this rain badly and there are always plenty of happy things to do inside the cottage while the winter has a final fling outside ~~~ such as baking cake, for there must always be cake ~~~

Last Monday evening, the programme "Paul Hollywood's City Bakes" came from Reykjavik, Iceland. Of course I was glued to watching it as I lived there for four years and it was a real trip down Memory Lane to see the beautiful Icelandic land that is so dear to my heart. Every weekend I visited the town of Hveragerði so I could buy island~grown tomatoes, cucumbers, bananas, lemons and more grown in their geothermal greenhouses! I watched with great interest as he visited a local baker who uses the free, geothermal energy to bake delicious barley and rye bread, and rich fruit cake ~ all baked, or steamed, in the steam rising from the volcanic vents!  Later, he visited with the Mayor of Reykjavik and in his home made the traditional Laufabrauð which I wrote about here in December 2016.  Then, with lots of other explorations into Icelandic cuisine, he made his own version of a sponge cake using the unique Icelandic ingredient Skyr, which is a high protein, low fat dairy product similar to yogurt.  So, I just had to make one, and the recipe can be found here.



Well, this is my verdict. It has a good texture rather like a pound cake, so good with a cup of tea. According to the recipe, you bake it in two 8" pans, but I think it will bake well in a Bundt pan with and temperatures adjusted accordingly.  It is not the most elegant looking of cakes, rises to quite a dome making it difficult to fill, so I might halve the recipe and bake one layer, then cut it in half horizontally to fill it. I think you could use a thick yogurt, such as Greek style in place of the Skyr. The recipe says to serve eight, but it is such a deep cake it would easily serve twelve, or more. I found it rather bland, so I maybe ground cardamon would be a good alternative to the ground ginger, especially if serving with coffee {cardamon and coffee go so well together} ~~~


Until next time ~~~
~~~ Deborah xo